ScubaPete's FAQs

OPTION # 3.
DVDFab Decrypter (Free) DVDFab Decrypter, a "HOT" little Decrypter, felt by some to be better than DVD Decrypter for speed, it is currently able to rip 100% of encryptions used today. This, easy to use program is limited to ripping in the "File" Mode only BUT, as the vast majority of DVD's can be successfully ripped in the "File" Mode, it should still be considered for download.

OPTION # 4.
AnyDVD ~ Free for a 21-day trial then, $39.99 with free updates for life.
AnyDVD is a driver-type decrypter and, as such, requires little or no time to decrypt and render an original DVD "region free". It also requires no HD space as it does all its work, "on-the-fly" saving anywhere from 6 to 8 GB of free HD space. AnyDVD decrypts CD's and DVD's alike, "Automatically", the moment they are inserted into your drive. The program requires no intervention by the operator with the exception of the downloading and installation updates. AnyDVD is updated frequently and will rip 100% of the encrypted CD and DVD discs out there. Some new DVD encryptions have prompted an AnyDVD update to break them a full day before the discs with those encryptions have been released. (Ain't technology wonderful ? ?) Though the other options are FREE, AnyDVD, considered the best in the business, is generally believed to be worth the investment.

NOTE: I have never believed in throwing away money unnecessarily, in this case I'll simply say, let your pocketbook be your guide. Since AnyDVD has a 21-day FREE, full featured trial. Download AnyDVD by itself and sea how you like it. Don't combine it with any other ripping program, use it by itself so that you may evaluate it honestly.

Last but not least, if you don't already know him, I’d like to introduce you to the "Star" of our little show, (drum roll building to a crescendo,) Here’s DVD Shrink.

(Ahhhem,)

"Thanks everyone. I'm glad to be here. Someone asked me the other day, "Hey Shrinkie Baby, How do you handle troublesome little DVD's ?" Well, here's a little trick I though I'd let you in on. "Are you taking notes ScubaPete ? There'll be a test at the end of class."

Alright, here we go . . . . .

WHEN RIPPING A TROUBLESOME DVD or an episodel OR a multi-angled DVD, I use DVD Decrypter in the "ISO" Read "Mode" ~

REASON: When you rip a DVD in the "File" Mode, you only copy the file structure. When ripping a DVD in the "ISO" Read "Mode", you copy the entire disc, just as it is. Every nuance, camera angle, etc.

When ripping in the "ISO" Read Mode, you'll want to create a folder to hold our ISO image files. You will have an .ISO file and a .Mds file. Not to worry, DVD Shrink makes picking up the .Mds File Or the ISO image as easy as pie. Open DVD Shrink and go to"File" then "Open Disc Image", "Browse" for the folder you created to hold your Image files and select the .Mds file. Yes I know, the size is very small and it seems that the entire DVD is held in the ISO file BUT everything will be fine. Let DVD Shrink pickup the file and then process as usual. If you wish to use another proggy, you can use ISO Buster to change your ISO Image back to your VIDEO_TS and AUDIO_TS folders with all of your .VOB files, it only takes a second to convert them. ~

Some pple argue that ripping in the "ISO", Read "Mode" is "processor and resource intensive". It's true, you'll need all of your PC's resources when ripping in the "ISO" Read "Mode". If our PC's processors were auto engines with pistons and valves, it may well hurt the engine to run it full out for a long time BUT our processors don't have any moving parts and they won't "blow" a rod. PC processors are supposed to be used ~ the only thing a processor can get is "HOT" (temperature wise). If your PC overheats then something is wrong with it, i.e. The fan isn't working, something is blocking the airflow, the PC's "Heat sinks" are covered with dust, and you need to clean it out. In other words, it's not working in the ISO Mode that ever causes a problem. If your PC gets overheated then, you should expect the same problem when you encode a DVD OR when you burn DVD's as both of those actions require maximum PC resources as well. (A time for a chuckle here, . . . :) Many "Noobs" indulge in processor over-clocking, especially when they are using AMD chips. Moderate over-clocking of a Pentium processor will add some speed to your PC but then again, Pentium chips can handle the excess heat whereas AMD chips don't appear to handle the heat as well. For those over-clocking their PC, I say to you, working with ISO's is not where your problem lies. To address your heat issues, return your system's settings to their original state and your heat issues will soon vanish.

Again, here are the optional decryption programs you may well want to use with DVD Shrink OR, for that matter, any other program you're using:

"Why do I need to put files on my HD ?"

Let's try to answer the question, "Why do I have to backup files to my Hard Drive (HD) when I want to copy a DVD ?"

Why can't I just copy directly from disc to disc ?

Let's take the last question first, OK ?

For the vast majority of the DVD discs, those that show up as encrypted AND /OR those over 4.36GB in size, you'll have to back the disc up to your Hard Drive because you'll need to do some work on it before it can be burned to your waiting disc.

Think of it like you're making a Peanut butter and Jelly sandwich. Everything you need is in one place, the cupboard. All your DVD files are in one place, the original DVD.

You need a place to put all your ingredients, the Bread, Peanut butter and the Jelly - so that you can assemble them into a sandwich, you use the kitchen table. You need a place to put all the *IFO, *BUP and *VOB files you are taking from the original DVD, you need to assemble them into a VIDEO_TS folder OR you need to put them all together into an *ISO image, you need a place to work, you need to use your Hard Drive.

You assemble your sandwich putting your Peanut butter and your Jelly into two pieces of bread. When you are finished you can one of two things. First, you can leave all the "Fixens" on then table to make another sandwich sometime later OR, you can put it all away, right away, and have your table clear again. In DVD backup, we needed the HD to lay out all the IFO, BUP and VOB files and then to assemble them into a folder called your VIDEO_TS folder OR to put them all together onto an ISO image. When you are finished you can do one of two things. First, we could leave them on the HD to make another backup DVD later OR we can have them in a temporary folder (not unlike our kitchen table) to be deleted at a later time and have our HD space clear again.

In a nutshell, you have to write the files you're working with to your HD because the work you're doing there, cannot be done in "cyber-space." Any decrypting and/or compression (not to mention editing) needs space, about 2X the size of the original DVD (12 to 14 GB).

So, back to our original question - If you want to do a backup of an original DVD you'll have to backup your DVD to your Hard Drive in order to work on it to make your backup disc.

You can copy a backup copy (copy a copy) "on the fly" (without involving your HD) because it's already showing up to our software as decrypted AND is, the correct size to fit on a single DVD disc.

Now that you know why we need the HD, you can forget about that nasty old question and you can follow the bread crumbs back through the forest till you arrive safe and sound back in your own little bed. :)

Goodnight now and pleasant dreams :P)

your 2-cent Fairytale

"What is a VIDEO_TS Folder and why do I need it ?"

Whenever you rip a DVD in a "FILE" Mode you are going to wind up with a bunch of files ~ (Gee, what are the odds of that happening. Lol) there are going to be .bup's, .ifo's and .vob Files. In order for DVD Shrink, Nero, CloneDVD2 or most of the programs to accept these files they must be in a folder, which is named "VIDEO_TS" - written just like that, all CAPs as it is case sensitive. Some programs, like DVD Shrink, will create that folder for you. Other programs may only give you the above-mentioned files, your Bup's, .Ifo's and .Vob's files in a loose pack. If the files are loose, then you must create a folder for them, and that folder must be titled, yes, you have it it's --> VIDEO_TS, written exactly like that, in CAP's. When all the files are in that folder you can easily feed it to DVD Shrink, DVD2One, CloneDVD2, Nero (or other programs) for additional processing or burning. :D

"What do those letter files in the VIDEO_TS folder mean ?"

To burn a DVD in the "FILE" Mode You need to have a folder named VIDEO_TS

In this folder you'll need all of your DVD's ripped files.

Here's what they are ;

.IFO files = Information files. These tell where things are on the rest of the files,

.BUP files = More information files. Think of them as backup files

.VOB files= Movie files (Video and Audio)

OR, you could have an,

ISO image = An ISO image is single block of information holding all the information, audio and video of the movie. About the only thing you can do with an ISO image (without the help of an entirely different program) is to burn it to a disc. This block of information cannot be opened to allow access to what's inside without another program to do so, i.e. DVD Shrink or ISO buster.

Just 2-cents worth of information to help you on your way :P)

Stopping DVD Scratches

Every once in a while the age-old question comes up:

"What can I do about stopping those scratches on my DVD Discs ?"

The solution is easy enough,

Begin by purchasing TDK's new addition to the DVD world. TDK has introduced a new, scratch resistant DVD's named, what else, the Armor Plated DVD -R.

DVDInfoPro tells us that the media is made by TDK with their G02 dye app.

It is advertised to be 100X more scratch resistant.

I received a new TDK, "Armor Plated" DVD to try and see how it fared. I don't know about any "special" test BUT, while reading the advertising text on the side of the case, it would appear that I "accidentally" dropped the said case on the floor, "Oooops," where the disc "Popped" out and went skittering, recording side down, (what are the odds ?) a good 20' across my kitchen's, (gray-stone floor) which, while it was not dirty, by no means was it "clean." God, am I glad my wife isn't reading this over my shoulder." :D) In order to get it to a place, where I could retrieve it with my extended grabbing tool thingie, it was necessary for me to send it, yet again, across the entire width of the kitchen floor to a place where I had a place to grip the disc. How about them apples ? This normally would result in a severely scratched disc, no question about it. That means, I was fully expecting it to be severely scratched but, most likely recordable OR, if it was a burnt disc, it might still be playable or, . . . . NOT. The TDK, Armor Plated disc, hadn't a single solitary mark on the recording (dyed) side of the disc. Well, it actually did looked scratched, marked and mauled BUT, after a few applications of ScubaPete breathing "fog" on it, and wiping it down the front of my dress shirt, the dirt etc. was transferred from the disc, to front of my shirt leaving the disc spotless.

Remarkable !

NO, not the fact that I got my dress shirt dirty, the fact that the disc was not !

I was, and am, impressed !

I didn't really plan the accident BUT, as things so oft times go, it happened, imagine that ?

The only "Down" side, ~ besides my dress shirt becoming unwearably dirty, is that this disc's recording speed is rated at a "Blazing" of 2X, tops. Even using it on my Pioneer 109 (16X, DL burner) it was indeed very strict about that 2X part.:(.

Finally, an added side note ~ Have you ever gotten one of "those" oily finger smears on the business side of your discs ? The kind of "smear" that you cannot remove unless you put it into your trusty disc cleaner, shoot a "spritz" of Isopropanol & Distilled water onto it and give it a bit "O" the ole' crank to 10 or 15 seconds before it vanishes from view ? Of course we never have that happen to us, only a "Newb" would do something like that. Well then, I'm not saying that I ever got one of those "nasties" on this nice new Armor Plated DVD BUT iffin I had, (and I hadn't) BUT, yep well, anyway, just the lightest rub across my pant's leg and it was long gone. Like, . . WoW, I could hardly believe it SOooo, . . . . I didn't do it again ! I mean, I really didn't smear my oily little paws all over that "puppy" and, . . . . , right again, one little pass and that "No-smear" was HISTORY !

Sooo, if you've some "O" them Rug-Rats rumbling around your abode, and you're worried about getting some peanut butter, crayons marks or some light scratches on your kid's favorite discs, try a little Armor Plated DVD. ScubaPete thinks you're gonna like these guys to burn your kid's favorite movies on BUT you may wish to wait a little bit for the prices to go down.

There you go guys, that's my 2-cents.

ScubaPete, what's the best way to label and store my DVD's so that they don't become mixed up ?

Golden Rule Number # 1. Avoid fingerprints, smudges, oils or solvents on the top OR bottom of your DVD/CD discs as these skin oils, etc. can break down your discs making them unplayable in short order. Always keep your discs clean.

Here then, In order of best to worst, is the list of methods to label your DVD/CD's:

1. The hands-down, best way to label your DVD discs is to use Verbatim's LightScribe discs with a compatible BenQ LightScribe compatible writer.

"How does this work ScubaPete ?"

Verbatim's LightScribe media is one of their top-of-the-line 8X, +R media on a special disc that, you burn your File or ISO Image onto, just as you would any quality media BUT, when you are finished backing up your DVD, all you need do is to "Flip" the disc over, place it back into your burner and "burn" your label, text and graphics, with silkscreen quality directly onto the disc. There are no inks, solvents, adhesives, vinyl, foil or paper labels involved. It is, without a doubt, the finest system available.

2. Using a water-based marker to write directly upon the unburned side of the disc would be the second best manner to label one's discs. Just allow the marker a couple of minutes to air-dry before placing the disc into its jewel case.

3. Using a specialty, Disc printer, which uses regular printing inks and allows you to print your label directly on a "printable" disc media, comes in as next best. HOWEVER, you must allow for ample dying of the inks prior to packaging your disc. A drying time of a couple of hours is recommended as the solvent "leaches out" over a period of 4 to 6 hours)

4. A solvent-based, magic-marker now follows in our list.( The solvent used in these magic-markers is the same type of solvent found in many paints and lacquers and requires a drying time of several hours. Overnight drying is generally recommended so that no fumes become trapped in the jewel case and can attack the disc's finish.)

5. Paper vinyl or foil adhesive labels are next. You MUST use an application tool to be sure of a balanced application.) As with the above "Disc Printing" app., a couple of hours of drying time for the printing inks is required. The adhesive used to hold the label on the disc requires less time so, when the inks have dried, so has the adhesive and the discs are ready for their cases.

A hand applied label as the same type above rates as the very worst. Not at all recommended ! A hand-applied label will be unbalanced, bank on it. Depending upon how unbalanced the disc is, it may make the disc unplayable AND / OR, it could even hurt the DVD drive. Due to the extreme hi-spinning of an unbalanced disc, it can easily put a strain on the drive itself. :(

Some ScubaPete thoughts ~

1. The absolute best way to label your DVD's to use Verbatim's LightScribe discs with a compatible BenQ LightScribe writer, no question !

Draw-backs: It does require a LightScribe compatible burner (special purchase ?) AND the discs are costly, about $1.50ea (USD).

2. Using a water-based marking pen is economical AND there are no solvent fumes to attack the disc and break it down.

Draw-backs: NONE !

3. Using a disc printer with printable discs provides a 100% balanced label. Over a short period of time, it is less expensive than paper labels as you don't have adhesive template labels to buy.

Draw-backs: It involves the purchase of a specialty printer and separate ink cartridges AND, requires a drying time of a couple of hours before the disc can be put away.

4. Using a magic-marker is economical.

Draw-back: IF you do not allow it to "air dry," the paint solvent can break down the dye over time and can render the disc unplayable, especially in an environment with increased heat and light.

5. Paper, vinyl OR foil labels. I've personally had good luck using paper labels by "Neato" which has an application tool available to insure a balanced application. I use the tool to apply my labels and have done well over a 2,000 discs in this manner with nary a problem. (Crossing my fingers and lQQking everywhere for some solid wood to knock upon. :)

Draw-backs: You must buy labels on an adhesive template which cost approx. $.20 ea(USD) PLUS you still must pay for the inks for your printer. There is a possibility for an unbalanced disc even when using an application tool.

Finally, only a fool would try to apply an adhesive label to a disc free-hand. It would guarantee one an unbalanced disc ~ unbalanced enough to strain your drive at the least unbalanced enough to be unplayable OR to harm your DVD drive at the most.

STORAGE:

from Best to Worst ~

1. Storing your DVD's in a plastic jewel case, vertically, in a cool, dry place and out of bright OR direct light is the best method to ensure your DVD's longevity.

2. Storing your DVD discs horizontally, in a plastic jewel case, in a cool, dry area, comes in second.

3. Storing your DVD's in paper sleeves in a vertical manner is less desirable.

4. People storing their DVD discs in paper sleeves, stacked horizontally in direct sunlight or hi-light and hi-heat areas could expect their discs to degenerate prematurely.

5. People who stack their bare discs OR just allow them to be tossed anywhere, should be shot at dawn OR at 10:45AM whichever is easier to get up for OR, at the very least, should be forced to listen to endless tapes of Donnie and Marie Osmond for 24 straight hours without any breaks OR until they become stark raving mad, whichever comes first.

Temperature / light:

1. Discs should be stored in a cool, dry place, out of direct sunlight OR bright lights.

Addendum:

People leaving their discs inside their automobiles for days at a time OR, tossing them up on the dashboards OR the rear window ledge, should not be allowed to borrow other people's CD's or DVD's for a period of their normal lifespan, OR until the year of 2250. Whichever is longer.

ScubaPetes Guides

Programs used
in this guide:

TOPIC: TIPS and TRICKS for GETTING the MOST from DVD Shrink. ~

Question: ScubaPete, is there anything I need to know when working with DVD Shrink ?

"Why do I need to put files on my HD ?"

"What is a VIDEO_TS Folder and why do I need it ?"

"What do those letter files in the VIDEO_TS folder mean ?"

Stopping DVD Scratches

ScubaPete, what's the best way to label and store my DVD's so that they don't become mixed up ?

Thank you for choosing a ScubaPete Guide!

ScubaPetes Guides

Programs used in this guide:

TOPIC: TIPS and TRICKS for GETTING the MOST from DVD Shrink. ~

Question: ScubaPete, is there anything I need to know when working with DVD Shrink ?

"Why do I need to put files on my HD ?"

"What is a VIDEO_TS Folder and why do I need it ?"

"What do those letter files in the VIDEO_TS folder mean ?"

Stopping DVD Scratches

ScubaPete, what's the best way to label and store my DVD's so that they don't become mixed up ?

Thank you for choosing a ScubaPete Guide!

Programs used
in this guide: